Willie Olivier’s Etosha

For more than four decades, Willie Olivier has not simply travelled through Southern Africa – he has documented it.

As a journalist, traveller and author, he has devoted his life to making the region’s landscapes, history and natural world accessible to others. His latest publication, 'A Visitor’s Guide to Etosha National Park', is the newest chapter in an impressive career spanning more than 45 years.

Olivier’s career has taken him through virtually every facet of the media industry. He has been involved in radio, newspapers, media training, freelance journalism and book writing. Yet he says travel and adventure have always been the driving force behind everything he does. “Travel and adventure have always been in my blood,” he says.

Over the years, that passion has inspired him to walk thousands of kilometres along hiking trails and has taken him to virtually every corner of Southern Africa. One of his most remarkable journeys took place in 2002, when he travelled alone through Mozambique – covering around 12 000 kilometres in 30 days – while conducting research for a travel guide to the country.

His love of nature began during childhood when he grew up at a forestry station outside Cape Town. Between 1979 and 1985, he ran his own business offering organised multi-day hiking tours throughout Southern Africa. The experience and knowledge he gained there eventually led to his first book, 'The Guide to Hiking Trails', published in 1988. A year later, 'Visitor’s Guide to Namibia' followed – the first comprehensive English-language travel guide to Namibia. Since then, he has written numerous books on subjects including Owambo, Khaudum National Park and various destinations in South Africa.

Etosha through new eyes

With his latest book, Olivier turns the spotlight on one of Africa’s best-known wildlife reserves: Etosha National Park.

"I am naturally curious,” he says. “I always collect information about places I visit, and in the end I have a wealth of information. Then I feel that I have to share it with other people.”

Although Etosha does not have the same variety of mammal species as South Africa’s Kruger National Park, Olivier believes the park has something few other destinations can match: the ease with which visitors can observe wildlife. The waterholes along the edge of the iconic Etosha Pan regularly provide spectacular scenes, with elephants, giraffes, springbok, zebras and predators gathering there. The park is also home to the western black rhino subspecies (Diceros bicornis bicornis), the rare Damara dik-dik and large populations of black-faced impala.

Olivier’s connection with Etosha dates back to the 1980s, when, as a journalist, he attended the then Department of Nature Conservation’s annual research meeting in the park.

Since then, every visit has brought new discoveries. Much of the information eventually included in the book comes from historical reports and scientific publications that have gathered dust over the years. He highlights fascinating facts, such as how the first black-faced impala were captured and relocated, as well as an early proposal to build a water canal through western Etosha – a plan that fortunately was never implemented.

According to him, scientific research is continually providing new insights into the park’s fauna, flora and ecology, much of which never reaches the general public.

More than just the Big Four

For visitors tackling Etosha for the first time, Olivier emphasises that thorough planning is essential.

Wildlife viewing is generally best early in the morning when the gates open and again in the late afternoon. He also encourages visitors to be patient at waterholes. “The dynamics around a waterhole can often change within a few minutes,” he explains.

Although the Big Four – elephant, rhino, lion and leopard – often receive the most attention, he believes visitors miss out on a great deal if they do not also pay attention to the smaller animals, birds and reptiles. He also recommends lesser-known places such as the Nuamses waterhole east of Halali, as well as the western section of Etosha, which is still relatively lightly visited by tourists.

After years of writing about travel and conservation, Olivier has developed a nuanced view of the role of travel journalism.

He acknowledges that publications about unique destinations inevitably attract more visitors, which in turn places pressure on vulnerable ecosystems. As an example, he refers to the Messum Crater, where what was once a simple four-wheel-drive track has over the years become a network of tracks.

“There are many places in Namibia that I will never write about,” he says. “I know it will only attract more people.”

It is a reminder that good storytelling should not only inspire people to travel, but also to travel responsibly.

More than just a travel guide

Although ‘A Visitor’s Guide to Etosha National Park’ is packed with practical information about waterholes, routes and accommodation, Olivier hopes readers will take much more from it.

He wants people to better understand the park’s history and to look at the vegetation, geology, birds, reptiles and even the smallest inhabitants of this unique landscape with a renewed appreciation. For him, the greatest fulfilment lies in sharing knowledge and enriching people’s travel experiences.

“Whether it is history, flora, fauna, geology or ecology, if people learn something new and experience their journey in a more meaningful way, then I have achieved my goal.”

And although ‘A Visitor’s Guide to Etosha National Park’ has only just been released, Olivier is far from done. He is currently putting the finishing touches to a new book about the Onguma Nature Reserve on the eastern boundary of Etosha. After that, he says, he will take a little time to rest before the next adventure inevitably comes calling.